The text below is grayed out because it is not intended to be read. It is a necessarily imperfect OCR of the original and is only used by a search engine.
1960
Journal of the Lepidopterists' Society
159
ESPECIALLY FOR FIELD COLLECTORS
(Under the supervision of Fred T. Thorne, 1360 Merritt Dr., El Cajon, Calif., U.S.A.)
CONTAINERS FOR REARING LARVAL, CONSTRUCTED EASILY AND QUICKLY
by Joseph Muller
In my leisure time I often browse through the older issues of The Lepidopterists' News. Doing just that, I came upon the article "Some Simple Equipment for Rearing Larvae" by Richard Guppy (Lepid. news 11: 227-229; 1958). Comparing his methods with mine gave me the idea to describe my own home-made containers, being used successfully for many years.
Before arriving at the containers I presently use I worked with large-mouthed gallon jars. An ink bottle filled with water containing food plant was placed on the bottom of the jars. The top was covered with cloth, held in place with rubber band or string. Finding that many young larvae, once they left the food plant or fell to bottom of jar, had a tough time to find their way back or died in doing so, I eliminated the ink bottle. Instead, I had a hole drilled in the bottom of the jars, the size of a quarter-dollar, making it easier for wandering larvae to get back to it, as food plant now was touching the bottom of the jar. Still, these were not the desired containers. In using these glass jars I had to stick to certain sizes of jars, while smaller glass jars collected moisture on the sides so fast and thick that a large percentage of larvae stuck there and drowned.
After more experimenting I stumbled on plastic. Now, at last, I was able to make my own containers in any size I wished quickly, moisture free, neat-looking, and I have been using them for the last ten years. The small plastic containers are especially handy for freshly merged larvae, as almost anything will do to raise full grown larvae in.
The average sized and most easily made container I build out of an empty coffee can which I cut to about half of its height. Plastic, usually bought in sheets or rolls, is available in different thicknesses. It is better not to use it too heavy as it is much easier to fit together, but it should stand up by itself. Plastic must be cut straight to prevent larvae to escape on bottom or top of container. After it is cut to the desired height, averaging 6-12 inches, it is fitted very tightly in inside of the can, overlapping about one inch on a side and held together with "Mistik Tape". One strip I tape to the inside and one to the outside of the plastic, overlapping one inch on bottom and top which then I bend to the inside of the cylinder. Plastic glue, in my experience, is messy to handle, and plastic when not heavy enough will bulge either inward of outward, making openings for larvae to escape. "Mistik Tape" makes a neat, job, besides it can be taken off again, to use the cylinder to
160 ESPECIALLY FOR COLLECTORS Vol.14-: no.2
make different sizes. Around tops of coffee cans one finds a metal band which is easily taken off. This ring fits perfectly over cloth on top of the cylinder and holds the same in place so that no larvae: can escape. Food plant comes through a role on the bottom of the can which itself stands on top of a container filled with water. The bottom of the can is covered with white paper to absorb moisture and is exchanged when the receptacle is cleaned. I prefer white paper because the fine dust-like frass will be detected immediately, before any chewing on food plant by caterpillars can be found. This is very important, especially when the food plant of larvae is not known, enabling one to present a different bouquet in time before larvae die.
When having only a few larvae to feed, T make of course smaller containers. Looking closely around the house, one always will find some kind of a can or even a hard paper container for the bottom part of the receptacle. When food plant has to be changed I have a second one handy with fresh food in which I drop larvae. For growing larvae I use larger containers. I have just finished building four containers 12 inches high and a diameter of 10 inches. For the bottom part I used a very hard paper drum. These drums are available in all sizes. The only difficulty is to hold close in place a top, as no rubber band or string can be used. Thinking of the perfect job the ring of a coffee can does, T make a similar ring out of soft metal bands riveted together with "Speedy Rivets", the whole job taking only minutes. Every hardware store will handle both metal bands and rivets. Plastic cylinders are also nicely used over potted food plants in flower pots or tin cans.
Larvae too large for these containers I feed in wider, hard paper drums or wooden barrels. One or two bottles, depending on the size of the barrels, contain food plant. Burlap bags are used for covering, fastened with strings. Barrels must be kept in a cool place, and in hot spells during summer, bags are soaked in water, keeping leaves fresh longer. More than one hundred larvae of Catocala 1 fed and had pupated in one barrel without losing a single one at one time. For full grown Sphingidae larvae, which are best raised to the last stage in sleeves outdoors, I prepare a heavy layer of sphagnum moss on the bottom for them to pupate in. Larvae which are still feeding after three days (most will have disappeared in the moss) I transfer to a different receptacle to prevent them from squashing already pupating larvae.
I get a lot of pleasure out of chasing butterflies in the field, sugaring and light collecting, but the greatest satisfaction I get rearing scarce and interesting species from the egg to the adult stage. Describing my home made containers, I hope to encourage some beginners to do more rearing with the help of these easily and quickly constructed plastic receptacles.
Early this spring (1960), I have almost one thousand larvae (mostly Catocala) hatching, and I can hardly wait until the time comes to transfer the tiny larvae to my already prepared containers.
R. D. 1, Lebanon, N. J., U. S. A.